Thursday, 22 June 2017

To Brentford

Hampton Court to Brentford
June 2017

Of all days which would you pick to visit Hampton Court Palace? The hottest day since 1976 when the thermometer hit 34C?. Yup, that's the day we picked for our visit!

These last few days have been stifling and I was really not happy about dropping down to the Hampton Court moorings, which mean both the motor and butty would sit for the whole day in full sun. Instead I decided to look for a shady spot before the lock and came up trumps tight opposite the weir. The water was deep and there were some trees which would offer shade all day. There were no notices to say we couldn't moor there so I decided to go for it and apologise if necessary. There were some convenient trees so we roped in on three places and headed off to the Palace in blistering heat.

The old Tudor Palace really was the place to be on such a hot day. True it wasn't exactly cold' but it was very good at keeping the heat out and allowed us to explore Henry 8th's palace in reasonable comfort. We also visited the Maze which proved surprisingly easy.

By 3.00pm we had had enough and returned to the boat and the shade of the stern deck. To freshen up we had another swim and concluded that the easiest way out is to climb up the butty's elum. The rest of the evening was spent trying to stay stay cool accompanied by the distant refrain on a Bryan Ferry concert taking place in the Palace grounds. The only sad aspect was the arrival of an air ambulance and the emergency services who ended up pulling the body of a young lad out of the river, a lad who had apparently got into difficulties trying to swim across.

After a suffocatingly hot night Adam and Adrian (Briar Rose)  popped in for a drink and a catch up, which was a lovely bonus.

But then it was on to the main event of the day - the tidal crossing from Teddington to Brentford. We cast off at 11.00am and reached Teddington at 1.15pm, joining the line of boats waiting to be lowered to the tidal Thames, just before high water. High water was 2.10pm and we are out and at it by 2.00pm. 

Just before we entered the lock we saw a flash of gold and realised that Gloriana, the Queens royal barge was on its was upstream to Staines. The vessel was made for the Golden Jubilee celebrations and still looks absolutely amazing.

They let us out knowing that a narrowboat can safely make a passage to Brentrord before the water level drops too far to get them over the cill of Thames Lock. The problem for us is our speed, or lack of it. Most narrowboats can make six or seven mph over still water but I know that with a butty on the side the best we can do is about 3.5 mph. So, the question was : could we make it to Brentford in time?

We pushed the revs up from the usual 1300 rpm to 1600 which increased our speed a bit, but the other four narrowboats soon left us behind and we were on our own as the tide turned and swept us downstream at an alarming pace. Landmarks at Richmond flashed past as we hurtled under the various bridges and then over the Richmond weir which retains some water in the upper section. Beyond this we really were on our own, powering away through all sorts of floating detritus, and all the time with the nagging worry that if we miss the turn into Brentford we probably don't have the speed to punch the current and claw our way back upstream.

We kept a close eye on the map and edged over to hug the northern bank ready to turn in as soon as the channel to the locks comes into view. The key here is to turn in upstream of the scuplture on the point. We swung the boats out of the ebb current with a huge sense of relief and slid into the welcoming CRT lock which had been set by volunteer staff. By this time the water level had dropped four or five feet and the passage had taken us exactly 1.5 hours. Brentford lock may not win any stakes in a beauty pageant, but few locks have been as welcomed!

The CRT staff were charmed by the concept of hr butty and we had sold three jars before we even exited the lock!

Almost at once the change in moorings were apparent. Gone was the empty channel of seven years ago, and in its place it was nose to tail boats. Fortunately we found a 45 foot gap before the A4 and edged in with the butty still on our side. We will sort out the towing straps to run in line astern tomorrow morning as we make for Bulls Bridge.

Tuesday, 20 June 2017

Hampton Court

Pyrford to Hampton Court
June 2017

Having covered so much ground yesterday we decided to repeat the exercise and set our alarms for 6.00am. However, there is sometimes a gap between intent and action. 

Misty morning on the Wey

I intended to get up and did so, but Helen had a bad night and didn't! She looked so bleary eyed at six I suggested she went back to sleep and I would take the boats down to the services at Pyrford Lock. As it turned out I turned the lock whilst the water was filling and then dropped down the shallow lock on my own, and just carried on. I think she eventually woke as I passed he junction for the Basingstoke Canal a couple of miles further on.

Rope rollers at Walsham Flood Lock

The early morning was delightful, with a heavy mist hanging over the meadows and everything dripping with dew. Much to my surprise I discovered Melaleuca moored stern out about 400 yards downstream from where we had stopped. There was no sign of life so I puttered past and into the mists swirling around Walsham Flood gates.

I am not sure if its on account of the cooler temperatures making cruising more pleasurable, or the benefit of going with the flow, but we seemed to make rapid progress down the navigation passing New Haw and Coxes Locks in quick succession and by 10.00am we found ourselves leaving Town Lock with its sharp bend and approaching Thames Lock with its resident lock keeper.

 Coxes Mill

Town Lock, Weybridge

We brought the butty back to into the river breasted formation and were helped down through both locks and there we were, back on the glistening Thames at Shepperton.

Well, that was a bit of a surprise. We had crawled up the Wey navigations over three days and came back down it in just over one. But this isnt a navigation to be hurried, Its a delightful mix of canal and river and represents the first modern era navigation. It is quirky, with irregular locks which can catch you by surprise and many split channels where its reassuring to see a letter box bridge with the word Navigation telling you which way to go. What is most amazing is its isolation. Its a 20 mile waterway which runs through a densely populated area but apart from Guildford there is nothing to be seen except pasture water meadows and occasional glimpses of church towers in the distance.

Dodgy mooring or what?

Of course, there is unfinished business up here. Sure, we made it to Godalming, but we never ventured up the 30 mile Basingstoke Canal. A good reason to return, maybe in 2019.

Back on the Thames the sun burned away both the mist and the high cloud and by noon it was pushing 30C. We ran downstream to the Molesey Reservoirs, a couple of miles upstream from Hampton Court, and found a nice shady spot under the bank and hid for the rest of the day.

By 4.00pm we had both dozed and decided to take a dip in the Thames. I will let the pictures tell the story....

Ladies First:

And then himself:

Well, I did grow up in the Benny Hill era!

Heading north

Godalming to Pyrford
June 2017

If yesterday was a canal of two halves, this has been a day of two halves.

St Catherines Lock, Godalming Navigation

As planned, we woke at 6.00am and were on the move by 6.30. The coolness of the early morning was delicious after these long sticky days. Dew dripped from the boat and Helen even sported a sweatshirt for the first hour or so. 

Godalming Wharf has a Sainsburys next door, which includes a fuel station, which was handy because the generator was running on fumes last week when we used it to power the printer. 

Off we went along a mirror calm navigation, the early morning sun flickering through the leaves and here and there an early morning jogger out on the towpath. As we approached Guildford the towpath started to throng with walkers going to work, not something I have encountered in any volume before.

Corner rollers on Godalming Navigation

The river sections are extremely winding, so twisty that the navigation authority installed rollers on the bends to guide the ropes round. I would imagine that a long lining pair would lose sight of each other, and heaven help any pedestrians caught by the tight tow ropes and the motor hauled the butty against the strong flow. Of course, we are coming downstream now so our progress is much faster, and that also creates problems on the corners where there isn't really time to get the butty through one turn before its time to reverse it and go the next. It certainly tested my control skills to the limit and I only went aground once, and that was because I was also trying to photograph the rollers.


The bends were not the only obstacle. A lone rower was out from Guildford Rowing Club, working up a sweat powering up and down the river. The trouble was that he was so focused on his rowing he never thought to cast a glance behind him. I was coming downstream at maybe 2.5mph and he was dashing along at about 10 mph, so we closed fast. I noted that he was holding the right of the river to I moved to my right and it appeared he had clocked me and made allowance. Not so! As he got closer to me he moved back more to the middle and although there was no chance of his boat hitting mine an oar clattered our side.

Alice, her sister and the hare

Now I would assume that rowers have a responsibility to keep an eye on where they are going, indeed many seem to have a sixth sense about other boats, but this one was obviously startled and yelled that I should have shouted warnings at him. He was completely shocked at my suggestion that he casts a glance behind him from time to time. How is it that is you do something wrong its always someone else's fault????  

The Bargee in Guildford

Anyway, rowers aside it was a tranquil trip through Guildford, spotting a number of great sculptures on the towpath.

Eclectic art in Guildford

By 10.30am the sun was hot so we pulled in at the shady spot we used a couple of nights ago and waited out the day, to resume movement on the cool of the evening.

So, after an eight hour pause we set off into the setting sun. All traffic on the Wey Navigation has ceased and one by one we passed the northbound craft which has passed us as they toiled through the heat of the day.

Papercourt Lock Cottage

We slipped down the waterway as the sun dipped away to the west, setting as we passed Papercourt Lock and then Newark Lock at about 9.15pm. In the end we moored on the water meadows just above Walsham Flood gates, pulling it at 9.30 as the light was failing..

Newark Abbey at sunset

Monday, 19 June 2017


Guildford to Godalming
June 2017

The Wey Navigations has a number of faces, but from a strictly legal perspective there are two elements: The Wey Navigation which runs 15 miles from the Thames at Weybridge to Guildford and then it becomes the Godalming Navigation for its final five miles. 

We spent the night just above Bowers Lock, huddled in a stand of ancient oak trees which offered shade from the relentless sun. Sunday started slowly as we had visitors from Weybridge arriving and travel issues delayed their arrival till noon. I decided to use the delay to change the engine oil which was nearly 30 hours over its scheduled 250 so, at 9.00am I thought "its not too hot - it will be fine" and donned my trusty boiler suit. It soon became apparent why its called a boiler suit! Even with is turned down to my waist I sweated my way through the task. But hey, its a job done and it wont need doing again till we are in the Braunston area in August.

:Peter and Rachael Talibart

Peter and Rachael Talibart arrived and after cooling drinks we headed south and into Guildford. As we approached Depdune Wharf, which is the National Trust's centre of operations for the Navigation, Melaleuca passed us going the other way - drat. We had both been keeping an eye on each others progress and both figured we would meet the other moored up. Rapid pleasantries were exchanged as the boats drifted apart and we tootled into Depdune to find the Sanny Station. Then, as I was hunting for the door, Melaleuca appeared from down river. It seems her Captn did a sharp about turn in the river, creating a winding hole by crunching the bows into the bank - and taking his crew by surprise. It was great to have a few minutes to catch up and let them restock their preserve larder.

Depdune Wharf

Then it was on in the heat of the day through Guildford and Town Lock amid hoards of gongoozlers, trying to keep cool at the temperature nudged 30C. Frankly by then we were trying to find shade, any shade and having spied a likely looking spot just south of Millmead, we drove in our pegs and gave up for the day. As it was gone four our guests took their leave and set out for a train back to Weybridge.

Rope Rollers on Godalming Navigation

As for us we sat in the shade and contemplated our next  move. We have a deadline to be in Ware for 29th June (allowing a day to set up) and we need to have enough time to cross London, which means a tidal crossing at 2.00pm (ish) on Friday with a day for Hampton Court on Thursday. Thus far it has taken us three days to cover a measly 16 miles, a tally which has far more to do with the heat than the state of the navigation. But it was so frustrating to have got within 3.5 miles of the end and missed it. By then it was 7.00 and the sun had lost its sting so we though - why not carry on this evening?. 

Paddle boarder at Unstead Bridge

We were delighted with our decision because the winding river sections south to Godalming are a delight. I didnt notice the advertised shallowing of the channel. However, the bridges are low, kind of Stoke on Trent low. We pressed on, eventually reaching Godalming Wharf at 9.30pm. 

There are three mown stretches of bank prepared for visiting boats but irritatingly one was occupied by a boat and the other two contained a fisherman. Undaunted we created a mooring adjacent to the service block and refilled the water tank and disposed of the rubbish and then had a think about our best approach to the return journey.

Godalming Wharf

As tomorrow is forecast to be even hotter than today we decided to get up uncharacteristically early  at 6.00am and get a good four hours under our belt before the sum gets hot. By my reckoning that would take us back to our previous nights mooring above Bowers lock, where we know there is shade. Then, when its cooler, we will set off again and cover another 5 or 6 miles in the evening.