Heading north

Droitwich to Ashwood Junction

May 2018

We have finally set off on our northern journey which will see us arrive in Liverpool at the end of the month.

Max Sinclar's old cottage

The plan was to travel to Autherley Junction and then turn north up the Shroppie, but the breach at Middlewich means a few more locks and miles as we will go via Stoke. The downside is the climb to Harecastle and then down Wheelock Edge so lots of locking to look forward to.

Reed fringed Barge Canal

For now we started off bright and early, slipping out of Netherwich Basin before the other boaters were awake. The Droitwich Barge Canal was a delight, with deep water and the locks all set in our favour. Not that there were any other boats around, so we locked down alone. 

We breasted the boats up in the bottom lock ready for the passage upstream. This isn't the fastest way to travel but it is by far the safest and one where both boats are under control at all times. The downside is the speed. The Severn is comfortably in the green but it still has a strong flow on it, which slowed our progress to 2.5mph on most reaches but just below the locks where the river is at its shallowest progress slowed to an agonising 1.5mph!

Holte Bridge and Lock - River Severn

Holt and Bevere Locks passed in slow succession but all this time we had the river pretty much to ourselves. Locking up was a tad interesting because in both locks the keepers wanted us on the operators side. Unfortunately, this is the butty side which, with its minute 2m of straight plate, means we tend to swing round like a top. So, Instead of locking up with ropes attached we elected to bob about in the chamber and have the paddles raised very slowly.

We came into Stourport Basin in mid afternoon and after a pause on the service mooring we left the main basin and found a secluded spot on the visitor moorings.

Caldwell Lock

Thursday saw us slide upstream along a deserted Staffs and Worcester Canal, miles and locks passing us by is a steady sequence. Kidderminster offers good shopping opportunities including a visit to Sainsburys. One of the nice things about travelling with the butty is the reaction it elicits from passers by. As we rose up Wolverley Lock a German boating party were having a few beers in the sunshine and asked about the butty. Before we left the lock we had sold 6 jars which paid or a couple of pints of bitter and left a profit on top.

As the weather was lovely we pressed on and ended up mooring in the secluded environs of Ashwood Junction.

Down to Worcester

Down to Worcester

April 2018

Boaters have a rather intimate relationship with the weather and it therefore comes as no surprise that many blog posts start with a reference to the prevailing meteorological situation.

Well, that hot spring weather has well and truly passed and we woke at Hanbury Junction to a very chilly and wet scene. Not a sight which inspired us to proceed with plan a and descent down to Worcester via the canal. Instead, we hatched a plan b and made the relatively short hop down to Droitwich. 

The Penguin get it!

Before we turned off the Worcester Birmingham we tied the butty to come work boats at the junction and motored around to the boat yard where filled with fuel and picked up some more logs to stave off the forecast cold.

We arrived at the top locks just as the lock keepers arrived on duty and had a long chat with a new volunteer who was plodding around in a comedic manner. He must have selected some old shoes and both soles were flapping around. I do hope he enjoyed the experience and found some safer (and more comfortable) footwear before the day was out.

The rain had raised the level of the Salwarp and this in turn reduced the headroom under the motorway to little more than 180cm, enough for us to pass but much less clearance than we are used to. Few boats were moving on such a damp day and we cut a lonely passage through Vines Park to adjoining bays in the Netherwich Basin. Carole and Adrian (Harbourmasters) returned to their boat during the afternoon and it took surprisingly little persuasion to entice them into the warm of our boat and ply them with a tipple or two of Gin.

Thinking of Tipples, we met Towpath Tipples at Hanbury Junction who will be one of three trade boats at this years festival. This was a great bonus because I had only just been having a look at their web page and selecting which Perrys I wanted to try. It looks like the trade boat line up will be a select one comprising the Glass Barge, ourselves with the Jam Butty and Towpath Tipples occupying what has been the Homebrew's spot.

The forecast for the event is looking up with temperatures nearing 20, no rain and light southerly breezes so, if you have time, do drop down and take in what should be a great weekend.

Safely off the Severn

After a night in Droitwich we travelled down the Barge Canal, entering the Severn via a very muddy lock. The water levels have only recently dropped and even after a period of drier weather it was still hovering between green and amber. As usual, we breasted the boats up with the butty on the right and idled along with a strong current sweeping is down at about 4.5mph. With this amount of fresh on we were glad not to be pressing upstream against the flow. Fingers crossed that it has slackened a bit more before we go upstream to Stourport after the festival in 10 days time.

Foden Steam Tractor in Worcester

We made use of the services in Diglis Basin and moored just before the first lock, all set for a spot of laundry and shopping in Worcester.

Carry on up the Severn

Upstream from Tewkesbury to Stourport

September 2015

After a week of going with the flow on the Avon it was payback time - two days of pushing the relentless flow of the River Severn.

Breasted up on the River Severn

To be fair, the river was well in the green zone so there was never a better time to have a go at this mighty waterway with the butty in tow. The first decision was to go breasted up or on straps? Progress line astern is certainly a bit faster but abreast is more maneuverable, better controlled in the locks and has the added benefit of being able to get in and out of the butty whilst on the move.

Plastic boat territory

Abreast it was then, so we sorted ourselves out as we waited for the Tewkesbury Lock Keeper to return from her lunch break, using both the front mooring rope from Wand'ring Bark, plus the butty's front rope to tie her nose in tight. We set it up so both rear bulkheads were about level and the end result is a surprisingly stable combo. Whilst progress is slowed to about 4.5 mph over the water and 3.5 mph against the land, there is no tendency to drag to one side as you might expect. 

 Birdlife abounds

Then it is just a case of exercising patience, accepting that other craft will pass you but sure in the knowledge that we will get there in the end. If Pearson says an hour for 4 miles expect to take an hour and a half.

After about three hours at the tiller Upton hove into view and as soon as I rounded the bend I had my telescopic lens out and I was looking to see in there was any mooring room on the pontoon. Moorings are scarce hereabouts and I was delighted to see just two narrowboats tied on, so plenty of room for us.

Upton on Severn

As we drew closer I was both amazed and delighted to realise that one of the boats was Briar Rose, with Adam and Adrian in attendance. This was one of those happy coincidences which happen from time to time and in a flash meal plans were altered so we could all spend the evening together. Lots of wine was consumed along with just about all their cheese (we provided the chutney and extra crackers because, strangely, we have plenty of both on board).

Briar Rose at Upton on Severn

Adam and Adrian slipped away at 8.30am the next day heading for Gloucester whilst we had a wander around Upton discovering that the quirky bookshop is no more. But as recompense we found a tree of amazing John Downey Crab Apples and its owner was more than happy to let us pick a bag.

The day was wall to wall sunshine which showed the Severn at its sparkling best. The wildlife was out in force but very few boats were on the move. 

Worcester

We were planning to aim  for Stourport but with the locks closing at 7.00pm it was clear this was not possible. Instead we kept going till we passed Holte Lock and moored on the upper lock landing for the night. There are few moorings on the part of the river and the lock keeper was happy to leave us there, so long as we were away by 9.00am the next morning. As we moored up we saw an amazing orchard on the lock island and after making suitable requests permission was given for us to pick cooking and eating apples plus damsons and plums. In one fell swoop we had made up for the thin pickings over the last few days.

Moody River Severn

Come 9.00am on Tuesday morning we were up and away through a mist so thick I couldn't see the end of the lock cut. We completed the trip up through the final lock in a little world of our own, dropping the butty astern as we approached Stourport and a return to the intimacy of the narrow canals.

A sad end for a BCN day boat

Whilst rivers are not as good as canals, at least this trip has given us confidence to tackle moving water with the butty in tow, and even to run the fast water outside Gloucester Docks at some point in the future.

A Breasted Pair

Stourport to Worcester

April 2015

Today was a big day for us. This was the first time we got to try out the pair of boats on moving water - the River Severn in this case. 

Getting out of Stourport was one long series of delays, wait for water to heat, wait for showers, wait for the slow water tap, wait for and finally wait for the locks and finally wait for C&RT to replace the paddles on one of the narrow locks. In the end one of C&RT staff let us down the Barge Locks, consuming an estimated 95,000 gallons of water and visibly reducing the level of water in the basin as a result.

Stourbridge Basin

This change of plans had an upside in that we were able to assemble the pair abreast configuration before we reached the river. I had been warned to expect the abreast pair to "handle like a pig" but in the event it was a surprisingly benign pairing.

We set the butty at the stern of Wand'ring Bark and there was none of the innate slew I had expected. Sure the speed was down a bit for river travel - a trace over 4 mph with a nominal current in our favour, but we made good time and found ourselves in Worcester just over four hours out of Stourbridge.

Stourbridge Barge Lock

Another day which confounded the forecast with loads of sweun but a biting wind in the shade. The weather for the weekend isnt looking great but hopefully with the gazebo up we will be fine.

Tomorrow we head north back to the start of the Droitwich Barge Canal and on to the festival ground in Vines Park.

Stourport to Droitwich

Stourport to Droitwich
May 2013

Thursday dawned clear and bright with wall to wall sunshine beating down from a cloudless sky.

Mooring ring in Stourport

We had hardly seen a boat for days and made a solitary descent into the town basin where we refilled with water and paid the obligatory visit to Limekiln Chandlers for various bits and bobs.

As usual, we had an extensive audience as we descended the staircase locks, passing a silent funfair and out onto a placid Severn.

Stourport Bridge

After weeks of frosts and cold it was a delight to cruise down this might waterway, flowing at a sluggish pace on this occasion. All very pleasant and the entrance to the Droitwich Barge Canal came up all to soon, the bottom lock still covered in mud from the winter floods.

Droitwich Junction with River Severn

The Droitwich is a firm favourite and this year it is in sparkling form. The reeds have been trimmed back and at last some moorings have emerged on the lower reaches. This is not a canal to hurry - slow down and enjoy.

 Droitwich bridge 1

Avon Trip 2012 - Strensham Lock

Avon 2012

Gloucester to Strensham Lock

24th August 2012

21 miles - 4 locks - 5 hours

I discovered the delights of the Gloucester Quays shopping centre today. I guess it must have been here two years ago, but it passed me by. The shopping centre has not one according to plan, with a much slower take up rate and the section nearest the water virtually empty. But they have a plan... All the shops have been moved into one consolidated block and it has dropped the "Designer" tag which makes it more of a shopping  destination and the aim is to move the multiplex in as well thus creating a vibe all through the day. Good news for shoppers but possibly less good news for boaters who like their moorings quiet.

Tewkesbury from the River Severn

I made a bee line for Mountain Life and their supply of lightweight walking boots and trousers whilst Belle took a good look at Regatta. Our summer wardrobes have become a bit thin lately and this was a good opportunity to set this right.

We were on the move by noon, dropping down onto the Severn and were immediately hit by the 2.5mph current which sweeps down from Upper Parting. This adverse flow always comes as a surprise, slowing progress to  crawl, its not for nothing that this was called skippers reach and even today its tricky waters catch boaters out.

 Tewkesbury Abbey

We proceeded upstream with the diesel booming out under heavy clouds which produced intermittent showers if rain. Not enough to soak me, but heavy enough to have me reaching for my waterproof. 

It was a relief to enter Upper Lode Lock, its gates standing open and ready following an advance call on Channel 74. As I idled in the chamber waiting for another narrowboat to catch up I asked the lock keeper why the outer, newer section of the lock is so large. I was told that it was built large enough to accommodate two dumb barges so that when they were towed up in strings they could all find shelter in the lock at the same time. Thus was particularly important at times of flood - you learn something new ever day.

At last we were able to enter the Avon and it wasn't in flood. Our last two attempts have ended in failure so it was a relief to pass through the Tewkesbury Lock and pay our £50 fee to the Avon Navigation Trust. Having finally made it to Tewkesbury we moored up and spent a couple of hours exploring the old town and the Abbey. A nice place but on a Friday night it is absolute gridlock.

We decided to press on a bit as we want to visit the Pershore plum festival tomorrow, and we commenced what was to be a very long route round Breedon Hill which dominates the landscape. We have entered cruiser territory and suddenly the slow deep drafted narrowboat seemed out of place. Instead the local boats are small plastic cruisers with high speed and good maneuverability. These are not the towering gin palaces of the Severn, but much more modest craft, much loves and full of character. 

Cathedral Choir

For an hour or more rain clouds built up round Breedon Hill, bowling up the valley like skittles in an alley. We avoided most but eventually one hit us head on at Strencham Lock, so I worked through alone and gave up an unequal struggle, mooring on the water point immediately above the lock. We retire for the night with the drumming rain competing with the drone of the M5 a mile or so away.

Avon Trip 2012 - Gloucester

Avon 2012

Upton to Gloucester

21 August 2012

20 miles - 2 locks - 4 hours

We spent the night on the moorings in the the company of nb's Autumn Years and Arden who spend their summers cruising together, but who were leaving before us. Given the strong flow we cast off and did a big leisurely figure of 8 in the river, allowing Autumn Years to move off - much to the puzzlement of the other moorers. I think I made things worse when I swung back to our starting point declaring "well that's enough cruising for one day - time for a stiff drink!"

Upton on Severn

Now Upon on Severn has a little secret and I will share it with you. Its the little bookshop on the high street. It appears chaotic, and in some respects it is, but it is also a veritable Aladdins Cave overseen be an eccentric gentleman who is to bookselling what Basil Fawlty has to hotel keeping. The trouble is that he knows what he is doing and carries the most magnificent stock. The secret is to accept him as on the the world's under cherished treasures and to defer to him in his kingdom.

 Flood markings at Upton on Severn

For starters his sign says he opens at 10.00am, but as we approached this literary holy of holies at the appointed hour its high priest was skuttling off with a "we are closed - try again in 30 minutes" called over his receding shoulder. We are no faint hearted book fiends so we retired to a local cafe to await the return of the Shekinah Glory once more. The patience of the faithful was rewarded and at last we were allowed into the sanctum, the high priest siting in his usual place, in the room to the right of his entrance which is piled floor to ceiling with books awaiting sorting and pricing. To the uninitiated it looks like chaos but to those of us in the know,   in this shambles lies the true path to literary Nirvana.

Gravel Barges on the River Severn

Oh! sorry - I seem to be caught up in a moment of rapture there. We finally escaped bowed down with a heavy load of boating and preserve making books, swapping the fine haul of obscurity for a crisp £50 note, which seemed to please the high priest no end. This little haul did include one absolute bargain - a coloured in copy of the BCN "Blue Book". For BCN fans this is the Bible but was printed in black and white. The practice was to colour the canals in blue (an unrealistic colour if ever there was one) but its a long job and it was well worth the money to have it done for me. But that wasn't the end of the excitement of Upton. No, far from it. We were out and about in foraging mode and chanced upon a Greengage tree, almost smothered in an oak. The fruit wasn't quite ripe but we quickly picked a ruck sack full for ripening in the coming days. Greengages are as rare as hens teeth so this was a big bonus. 

So, we cast off for a second time at 12.15 and the strong flow helped us eat up the miles to Tewkesbury and the confluence with the River Avon. We will return here in a few days but it was reassuring to see the water flowing slow and clear - it usually looks like a raging cappuccino when we arrive. 

Then its out onto the 16 mile semi tidal reach to Gloucester. We joined on the high tide with less than a foot of drop at Lower Lode Lock - the last on the river. The River Severn is notorious for its tree lined banks which seem to close in and leave you in mind of the book Heart of Darkness. But below Lower Lode the trees receded and the views open out over the surrounding meadows. This is a bit of a lonely waterway, travelled by few and hire boats are almost totally absent. Its a place for solitary contemplation and niggling worries that the engine seems to sound a bit different today.... a fear which routinely assails me when I have nothing better to worry about. 

Gloucester Docks

Unlike the Trent, there wasn't much chatter on the VHF but I did call Gloucester Lock at Upper Parting and again at the Railway Bridge so I was mildly irritated to turn the corner to the lock approach by the "big wall" and discover that the lock was closed and the red light was telling me to stop. This is the first time I have had to hold back on the wall and opted instead to try and hold my position in reverse. I located the stern against the wall and waited, and waited, and waited. After what seemed an age the light flashed telling me the lock was being prepared and finally we were allowed into the safety of the lock chamber, gateway to the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal.

A word of warning here. Gloucester Council places a restriction on the opening of Llanthony Bridge - 8.30 till 9.00am and 4.30 till 5.30pm. We arrived at 4.32 so settled on for a wait - not that it is a difficult place to entertain yourself. Gloucester Docks are an impressive location.

Having passed through the bridge we restocked at the very convenient Sainsbury's and then allowed ourselves to be blown against the blackberry bushes where we picked 5kg of jamming fruit. We pumped out and re watered before settling in for a peaceful night on the pontoon beside the unopened section of the Gloucester Quays redevelopment.

Great place this.

Avon Trip 2012 - Upton on Severn

Avon 2012

Stourport to Upton On Severn

20th August 2012

22.5 miles - 9 locks - 6.5 hours

We awoke to a steady drumming on the roof - strange as there was no rain forecast, but that's the British weather for you. 

Conway Castle trip boat at Upton on Severn

It eased of at 8.30am so we set off, only for the wetometer to crank itself up to deluge status and we made a soggy entrance into Stourport, a town struggling to rouse itself after a weekend of revelry. The populace were very much like the water tap in the basin, a bit slow but got there in the end with the shops opening for business at a time somewhere near those published in their windows. I went in search of an i-pod adaptor and a jam funnel and much to my amazement was successful on both counts.

It was about now that I discovered a snag with my mid season oil change plan. The new oil was fine, but I had put the old filter in two poly bags which had both had leaked in the foredeck producing a mini Torrey Canyon of heavy black oil which was dribbling slowly out of the drains, leaving a swilling kaleidoscope of shimmering colour in our wake. Not quite the eco friendly disposal I had in mind!

A log pile to die for!

Then there was the mini boat jam as we attempted to descend through the narrow staircase locks into the Severn below. We were all hanging on to whatever we could reach with seemingly little action below. I eventually made some enquiries and was advised that a boat was rising who insisted that he HAD to have a clear run through all four locks before he could start. Clearly this is nonsense but by that time he was just about through so his whim was pandered to. 

Low Tec CCTV  system on the Severn

Notwithstanding the delays, we were out onto the river at 12.00 noon and by now the weather was clear and warm, as forecast. After weeks of floods the river was comfortably in the green but retained a good flow of fresh. We zipped down the river, quickly ticking off the locks as we went: Lincombe and Holt before passing the entrance to the Droitwich Barge Canal which we last entered in May. 

Robert with his veteran K1

Then it was Bevere Lock where I acquired the company of Robert, a fellow traveller but one who knows these waters far better than me and who accompanied me all the way to Worcester. Robert is a lifelong canoeist, founding the Worcester Sea Scouts and the Worcester Canoe Club whose impressive club house borders the racecourse. He is now 78 and is paddling a very unusual 1960's K1 made out of ply - and a veritable object of beauty it is too. I asked him how long he had had it and learned that he bought it for himself as a 77th birthday present. It was a state of the art racing boat made in Holland and would have been of Olympic class in its time. As for Robert, he has canoed at national level in a number of canoe disciplines over the years and just two years ago completed the Droitwich mini ring in under four hours. Not bad for a man approaching 80! 

 Boating at Worcester

Then a moment of panic, Belle tells me that we are meeting friends at Saul Junction at 2.00pm tomorrow - but I was working to the same time a day later. Suddenly it was imperative that we clear Diglis Lock and press on down as far as we can tonight. However, a quick text revealed that Belle had the day wrong and there was time for an overnight stop at Upton after all. Phew!

Floral disguise for the Upton flood defences

Upton is a great little place, one of the few towns which borders the river but the moorings are always over subscribed. The alternative is a night in the Marina but even with all their facilities  their £25 a night charge is ridiculous. The upper pontoon was occupied on both sides but the outer boat was single moored so we asked if we could moor alongside. Not too keen initially as they has  a nervous dog, but then they relented and were warm and engaging, helping us tie up in a swift current.

Upton's unusual landmark tower

We had a pub meal on the waterfront watching a beautiful sunset with the Blues Festival area being assembled on the field opposite. I always enjoy my stops in Upton.