No Wey!

Guildford

June 2017

Yes, we have made it onto the Wey Navigations, and its certainly the furthest south we have ever boated.

 Coxs Mill Wey Navigations

Friday morning saw us awoken by shouting from a passing boat, followed by a rapping on the roof. I emerged resplendent in my PJ's (it was 8.30am) to see a narrowboat hovering in mid stream asking if we were open? They were existing customers who had been following the blog and were hoping to catch us. They restocked on jams and suitably enthused the rapper, who came from the boat in front of us bought another three jars! When I say rapper I don't mean a hoodie wearing member of the gold tooth "down wiv the kids" brigade - you know where I am coming from...

This way to the Wey

With the till troubled we set off through Shepperton Lock and then hung a hard right into the Wey Navigations. You are faced with three options and the correct choice it the least promising - basically a small gap in the trees with a faded national Trust sign. They say that the path to heaven is the narrow one.

Thames Lock

We arrived at the wrong time really. The lock keeper of Thames Lock has his lunch from 12.30 till 2.00pm, so we hooked onto the landing jetty and settled down for a wait. Thames Lock is an oddity and kind of sets the scene for the whole navigation. The Wey navigation is arguably the oldest navigation in the  country, authorised in 1651 and is now owned by the National Trust, so things are done a bit differently. When built Thames Lock discharged onto the tidal river but, with the building of Shepperton Lock, the water over the bottom cill fell to less than 2ft. So rather than build a new lock an extra gate was built a water gate ashort way downstream and this is used to raise a short pound by 2 ft, which allows deeper drafted craft to enter.

Because the Wey is NT owned there is another fee to be paid, and for anything over 40ft its £80 for a week. Once a gain the butty proved a challenge and it was decided to class it as an unpowered craft (which includes canoes) and that added a further £12 to the bill. As NT members we has a 10% reduction but we still ended up paying over £80, in addition to the £120 we paid for the Thames for a month. Hey ho, its the Wey Navigations we really wanted to see so we raided the WildSide purse and pain the man his due.

We spent the next three hours plodding up the first five miles with the butty breasted up, but we only saw one boat moving. The breasted up approach is great for control but the navigation is both narrow and surprisingly fast flowing which almost brought us to a standstill in the bridges.

Woodham Junction - Basingstoke Canal

A few miles upstream we came to Woodham Junction where the Basingstoke Canal leaves on its journey west. We would love to have explored it but we just don't have the time, so it remains a reason to return!

In the end we crawled onto the moorings beside the Anchor Pub at Pryeford and wilted in the heat.

MSC steam tug

Saturday saw us rejoin the plod up the Wey navigation, this time with the butty in line astern which helped a lot with the speed. Just as well because the flow through Walsham Flood Gates would probably have defeated is in the previous configuration.

If yesterday was hot today approached unbearable. The sun shone relentlessly and the thermometer hovered near 30C. It really wasn't weather to be boating, but we moved upstream another seven miles to just above Bowers Lock where there was a bit of road noise, but was in deep shade. 

Pyreford Lock

A trip to Saunsburys was deemed necessary so we followed Helen's Google maps instructions for a mile only to discover it has misdirected us and the supermarket was a mile away - in the other direction. So we dragged ourselves into the store, made our purchases and slumped under an air con unit and ate Magnums till we had cooled a bit. 

Tomorrow is forecast even hotter so I doubt we will get much past Guildford.

Shepperton

Windsor to Shepperton

June 2017

Last nights theatre trip was to see a new version of "Waiting for God" - a stage version of the early 1990's sitcom which originally starred Graham Crowden and Stephanie Cole as they moved into and created mayhem within Bay view Retirement Home. The visit to the Theatre Royal, Windsor was no highbrow thespian experience, but it was a light hearted comedy which brought back lots of memories form the original TV version.

Sunset at Shepperton

Windsor and Eton are lovely little towns across the river but both are somewhat blighted by the ceaseless drone of aircraft making for or leaving Heathrow. In fact, an American tourist was heard to comment "gee, what a cute castle, but why on earth did the Queen build it so close to the airport!". 

Helen in Eton

Windsor sculpture

Having spent weeks away from motorways suddenly they are everywhere. Yesterday it was the M4 heading west out of London and today it was the M25 and the M3. Crossing the M25 means we really are closing in on London and that's how it will stay for at least five weeks and we make our escape up the Grand Union. But before that there will be the Wey Navigation where we slip back into countryside for a while.

German skiffs

I have to admit that I like the Thames more as it becomes more workaday. The ultra grand houses are replaced by extravagantly extended riverside huts and the start of multi level houseboats. All very absorbing and interesting.

Real boats

We seem to have  left the  worst of the multi story wedding cake boats behind as well. This is more an area for the enthusiast to cares and maintain much more humble craft, more in keeping with what we are used to.

A failed cherry landing

It has been interesting to keep an eye on the ripening cherries. We have tried a few but they are not quite ready for jamming - maybe a week or two.

We ended up just short of Shepperton Lock and the junction with the Wey, the sun setting in a blaze of glory.

Windsor

Bourne End to Windsor

June 2017

The plan was, as it so often is, to make an early start. The reality was waking bleary eyed at 9.00am and realising late starts are one of the great benefits of not working!

Windsor castle viewed from our mooring

The mooring at Bourne End was tranquility itself, just the occasional scrape as the baseplate moved against a sunken concrete edging, but in the main it was silence.

As we progress down the Thames the excess seen in the houses we pass slackens off a bit, with just a few grand piles staring down from lofty vantage points as we approached Maindenhead. The town is home to Boulters Lock, scene of some of the most iconic boating images from the Victorian era, when punting and rowing were all the rage. Today the lock chamber was less photogenic, including us, another narrow boat beside us and couple of plastics at the back.

Whilst the houses are more modest, there were some exceptional sculpture in the back gardens.

 Garden scupltures

The heatwave settled in today with temperatures reaching 24C out of a nearly cloudless sky. Helen popped in and out but I manned the tiller and tried to hide under my sun hat as far as it was possible. 

Bovney Lock

I have mentioned it before but the provision of boaters services it less than regular on the Thames. Not a problem with regard to water, but not so good when you have a cassette to empty. Thankfully, some facilities are provided beneath Bovney Lock and as I waited I saw pillars of smoke pouring from the lock chamber. No, the EA were not firing up the barbie for a staff social - steamboat Alaska was coming through. I have repeatedly pointed out Salters "steamers" to Helen and she routinely expressed disappointed hat they didn't steam. Well, this one did, taking a select few guests down to Windsor and back, its prop turning almost silently and leaving a very pleasant aroma of coal smoke in her wake.

Alaska in full steam

I mentioned the more modest riverside houses but I guess it has to be said that we are now moored beneath probably the grandest one of all - Windsor Castle. Ok, the meadow mooring costs £8, but its less than Henley and it does offer a rather splendid view. 

We will pause in Windsor, taking in the theatre tonight and going to the supermarket tomorrow (Waitrose of course) before heading down towards Weybridge and the Wey Navigation tomorrow. The general plan is to spend the weekend on the Wey, exploring the first new waters of the trip.

Bourne End

Henley to Bourne End

June 2017

Last night in Henley wasn't without incident. In early evening I glanced out at the park and saw clouds of smoke rising up from a nearby memorial park bench. Initially I thought it was on fire so I wandered over to see if anything was amiss.

Henley

 As I approached it was clear that the adjacent boat had decided to light a barbie under the seat, and use the slats to rest all their greasy meats. Whilst I did feel a bit of a busybody for sticking my oar in, I did point out that: 1. There is a no BBQ rule in the park, 2. Their barbie will inevitably leave greasy smuts all over the bench will will really mess up any visitors who happen to sit on it and 3 Its hardy a respectful way to treat a memorial bench. I said my bit, they thought I was a kill joy misery and the bench was messed up. Of course, they were gone before the rangers arrived the next morning thus avoiding both the £10 fee and responsibility for the damage....

Henley regatta course from Temple Island.

Tuesday morning saw Helen peruse the local shops whilst I hauled the twin tub out of the butty and set to work on the weekly washing. We set off at about 12.30, but not before I had popped into the little bookshop next to the Anchor Inn and stocked up on a couple of canal books, including a history on the Grand Junction which I will enjoy reading as we travel along it in July and August.

The regatta course was being constructed in readiness for the ladies event this weekend and there were loads of crews out warming up, putting in a bit of practice. As usual, we hugged the Oxfordshire bank had a great view back down the racing course to Henley a mile and a half distant.

Now I have been pondering my feelings for the Thames over the last couple of days, which has waned somewhat if the truth be told. It was only after I passed Marlow I realised my problem. I have been following our progress in Christopher Winn's "I never knew that about the Thames" and the last couple of days has been a journey into greater and greater excess, houses moving from the mere £1m plus to multi million and indeed tens of millions - numbers and sizes which are almost beyond comprehension. I mean, George Harrison was entitled to own Friar Park and all its 120 rooms, but what exactly do you do with so many rooms. We didn't use or visit all our rooms then we had 15!  

Marlow

These fantastical houses were the status symbols of lives accumulating wealth and this stretch of the river is a who's who of England past and present. But then I realised that they nearly all had one thing in common - they are dead, bodies languishing in lavish mausoleums, but if it says one thing its that you cant take a penny of it with you!

 Bisham Abbey and church

Moving beyond Marlow you come within earshot of Heathrow and suddenly the scale of properties falls away and you find yourself surrounded by more modest homes - and my affection for the Thames we reignited. I was particularly taken with Bisham this afternoon. Firstly there was Bisham Abbey, now the National Sports Centre and home of the England football team. They were even holding an al-fresco meeting complete with flip chart. 

Identify the girl?

Then it was the delightful Bisham Church which stands right beside the Thames. As I approached I realised that there was a photo shoot in progress, and a bride in white sitting on the river wall. There was no sign of a groom so I guess its for a wedding magazine but a house point for anyone who can identify the girl. The photographers got very excited as the butty passed behind her, offering a splash of colour in the background but I wonder how long it will take then to realise that our undies were hanging out to dry in the butty's hold! If you see the Jam Butty in a wedding magazine I suspect there will have been a spot of Photoshop activity.

We came to a stop in Bourne End, moored against the National Trust marshes site, a peaceful spot with only the occasional commuter train breaking the peace.

Henley

Wallingford to Henley (via Mapledurham)

June 2017

Just in case you think we have really picked up the pace and covered about 25 miles in one day, fear not! This post covers two days travel with a stop at Mapledurham in the middle.

Mapledurham watermill

We seem to have settled into a rhythm of about 12 miles per day and 5.5 hours cruising, about half of our usual distance and time. But we have time on our side and are in no hurry, so why rush?

Sunday was frenetic on the water, with shiny plastics everywhere. Then, like mist on a sunny morning, they all evaporated and, by Monday, we had the Thames to ourselves again. 

Challenging post box in Tilehurst

Several things have struck me about the EA's management of the Thames, compared to previous visits. First and foremost the number of times I have come to a lock and found it to be on blue Self Serve boards with no lock keeper on duty. Probably 25% have been self serve which for main daytime hours is surprising, especially on places like Cleeve. That said, every keeper we have encountered has been both friendly and helpful.

Furthermore, the frequency of taps and elsan points is low and its possible to cruise all day and not find one. But again, when we have found then the water pipes have been large and fast filling and the elsan points clean.

As far as navigation goes Sunday was a bit of a challenge with high winds making things tricky for us narrowboats and the lighter plastics alike. The only real issue I had was at Goring where there is limited landing area and the hire boat in front of me hooked onto the tail end bollard and had no interest in moving forward. This is all very well till I find myself approaching on a strong stream with 25 tons of steel and iron bearing down on either the hire boat or the plastics moored on the lee bank. On this occasion safety came before politeness and I hollered that I was coming in if they decided to move or not. Much to my surprise they dropped all their lines, swung round in the wind and ended up facing away from the lock! They were in good humour and we soon had them winded back in the right direction.

 Stephen and Cracker

For the night we moored on the field next to Mapledurham House. Oddly, we were the only boat moored there and usually its rammed. The next morning the guy came round for his £5.00 and I asked about the lack of boats. It seems that there has been a lot of bank erosion which has creates an underwater shelf which is a problem for the big boats. Narrowboats, he told me, are used to being on the bottom so don't mind so much. We went looking for Elderflower and found some big plastic boxes in the trees marked Elsan emptying point. They were probably put there when the field is used as a camp site, but as they had "contents" we thought why not?

On Monday we agreed to meet our friend Stephen and his dog Cracker and the meeting point turned out to be on the Thames Path below Tilehurst Station. 

The grey skies were something of a relief after getting a bit of sunburn yesterday. Whilst Stephen and I put the world to rights at the back Helen was busy making 18 jars of Goosberry and Elderflower Jam.

Cracker

Lunchtime was spent passing through Reading, a soulless place from a boaters perspective. As I looked up at all those corporate office I felt I was playing hooky from school, but I have no desire to be back in the corporate world!

Henley

Stephen and Cracker left us at Wargrave and we continued to Henley. We passed through the town and discovered that the moorings beside the rowing course are £10 per night so turned back and moored next to the rowing museum where the moorings are - also £10 per night! Henley is a pricey place. The main men's regatta is not for a couple of weeks but this weekend its the ladies event so the town was full of muscular american girls.