Glacier Country New Zealand

Queenstown to Franz Josef Glacier
Feb 2019

New Zealand has a big network of "Freedom" Campsites which are semi regulated wild sites.

Last night we used one at the north end of Lake Wanaka, hunkering behind the bushes to avoid a howling wind and enjoyed an unspoilt beach which was completely devoid of any human rubbish.

Today we crossed to the west coast on Highway 6 via the Haast Pass and then north to Glacier Country where we stopped near the Franz Josef Glacier. For the last week we have found the southern alps crowded with Chinese visitors celebrating their New Year but we are finally entering the much more isolated west coast where things are quieter.

The view from the camp site

We covered 240 km and crossed dozens of single track bridges, pausing at various waterfalls and beaches plus one unscheduled stop courtesy of the New Zealand Highways Police for speeding on section under repair. One fine later and we were on our way.

Our destination was the Franz Josef Glacier which involves a one and a half hour hike to reach its current end. All along the trail were markers saying when it was last at this point and the scale of the retreat in the last century is shocking. That said it is still awe inspiring and well worth the effort.

The snout of the Franz Josef Glacier

One top tip given to us was to go and see it on the day we arrive if the weather is good, because it rains 350 days a year! Today the sun shone and we had great views.

Don't go down the Crown Range Road

Notes from New Zealand 2
February 2019

To be fair, Maui were very explicit when we took over the vans that we were not to follow the Crown Range road and we even signed a statement to that effect. The problem was that we had only the faintest idea where this dangerous road was and on the map it looked like a tiny mountain track - so what kind of idiot would take a camper van there?

The problem was, as ever, technology. We were in Wanaka and wanted to get to Queenstown so we booted up the SatNav and off we went. The climb into the old gold mining area of Cardrona was very gentle and suddenly we found ourselves on a crest 3000ft above sea level and Andy and Fi's van playing up and our engine temperature worryingly high. Of course, we were just where we shouldn't be!

But hey ho we were there, so we pressed on only to be confronted by a terrifying squiggle of hairpins on the southern side. We were committed so we had to trust the brakes and make a steady descent. All was well except for the tiny car who missed a bend and came round in front of us with tyres squealing and only three on the ground....

The Southern Alps are majestic, as are the lakes - rather like the lake district but on steriods. Today we turn north and start a long 2 week trek which will end in Auckland.

Notes from New Zealand - 1

Notes from New Zealand - 1

Feb 2019

It's slightly strange to have swapped the frigid winter of the UK for summertime and harvest here in New Zealand, and to be typing the at the tail end of  a warm day knowing most of my readers will just be waking up.

To date I have always maintained that there are no canals in New Zealand but today I came across two. Not that they are navigable mind you, as they exist purely to transfer turquoise cold glacial meltwater from one reservoir to another. 

LakeTekapo

We started our travels in Christchurch where we picked up our home for the next 25 days - a very new camper van based on a Mercedes Sprinter base, which is comfortable but not exactly nippy! 

We will therefore be making a sedate tour of both islands heading South to the Mount Cook / Queenstown area before heading north up the west coast.

Christchurch Cathedral

Christchurch was laid to waste a few years ago by a big earthquake and it was interesting to see both the ruins of the old cathedral and the temporary "cardboard cathedral" they have constructed. Christchurch is busy rebuilding itself but the shocking thing is he number of "bomb site" car parks, presumably built on the site of collapsed buildings.

Timaru lighthouse

We then moved south to Timaru in the hope of seeing Penguins. Sadly, there are just a couple of a very small variety who sometimes appear just after dark. In the event we skipped the penguins and chose to socialise instead!

Sombre stuff in Timaru

Then it was inland to the stunning Lake Tekapo, stopping at Geraldine on the way. Geraldine just happens to be the home of the largest jam producer in Australia / New Zealand and we were allowed to sample a wide range of their produce, and came away with some provisions and good ideas (Boysenberries) for inclusion in the Wild Side range. The sunset at Tekapo was stunning.

Lake Tekapo at sunset

Then it was on to Mount Cook. Sadly the cloud was down and to be honest the place had all the appeal of Wastwater on a dull day. Added to which it is Chinese New Year and a bank holiday so the place was rammed. We beat a strategic retreat and moved to Omarama where we found both space and sunshine.

The slightly forbidding valley leading to Mount Cook

I wont bore you with lots of words and will instead let the pictures do the talking. 

This is a big country and somehow the only photos which do the scenes justice are the panoramas, taken on my humble i-phone!

Singapore River

Singapore River

February 2019

What better way to explore a city than by water?

 Singapore financial district from Marina Bay

The history of a place always seems to come to the waterfront and Singapore is no exception. We have stopped over here for a couple of days on our way to New Zealand, making something of what would have been an enforced change of planes in any case. 

Singapore's old centre of trade

We are staying in the very swish Fairmont Hotel with a view over the iconic Raffles Hotel, where we sampled a very acceptable (any expensive) Gin Sling in the Long Bar. Well, you have to don't you?

Life is better by water.....

We always seem to gravitate towards a boat trip when we reach a new city. It is a very natural way to get a feel for the lie of the land and often a good way to get a grasp of the historical overview. Our first attempt at picking up a local Bum Boat was not a success, but when we made it to Marina Bay we found that a handful of river trip boats were running so we took the 40 minute tour.

And even better with beer....

The colonial roots of Singapore show through in spite of its uber contemporary modern face. The relics of the old trading wharfs stand in stark contrast to the modern high rise financial district, but of course they are all just a part of a continuum of trade which runs from the days it was an outpost of the East India Trading Co through to its status of a regional financial centre today. Nice to see HSBC very present on the waterfront, even if the tower block isn't the highest.

Kind of mini Manhattan

Anyway, here are a few views from the water - and not a narrowboat in sight.

Canal Hunter series marches on

Canal Hunter YouTube series update
Jan 2019

Following the initial launch of the Canal Hunter series I have settled into a routine of posting one episode each weekend, usually on a Friday.

I now have episodes one to three live and the first series will continue for for a total of seven episodes.

For ease of finding them the links to the three live episodes are below:

1. An Introduction

2. Lost Basins of Birmingham

3. The Lost Loops

The rest of the series will continue to explore the lost sections linked to the original Birmingham Canal through to Balls Hill.

Next weekends episode will look at the various summits at Smethwick. 

Based on the positive feedback and viewing figures I have decided to make a second series this time following the second phase of canal building connecting the Birmingham Canal to the Staffs and Worcester at Wolverhampton, seeking out all those lost miles and maybe finding a hidden story here and there.

Undertaking the research and revisiting all these obscure corners if the BCN is proving to be a real joy, but i-movie crashing perhaps less so!

I hope you are enjoying following my explorations of 'The Other 60 Miles" - I will post a link each time I release an edition so you can find them easily.