Brentford

Brentford

June 2019

The Teddington to Brentford trip is tidal and therefore one to be taken with some added precautions, but having passed this way several times before with and without the butty on the side, its not one which holds any real terrors.

You don't often see me with a life jacket

For a start the first half as far as Richmond is only semi tidal. The section above Richmond goes up and down with the tide, but it never fully drains because a movable weir is dropped into place and holds back a minimum level of water. When this happens the Richmond Lock becomes available, but if you wait till then you will miss your window of opportunity to bet in at Brentford or Limehouse. Has any reader actually used this lock?

We were let out about 20 minutes before high water, so for the first mile of the trip we punched a small flood tide and then speeded up as we reached slack water at the top of the tide. It was at this point we passed a handful of boats heading upstream, including the always spectacular Gloriana, the Queens Barge. Then the tide tuned and we were given a boost, lifting our speed to over 4.00mph and we slid past Eel Pie Island and the edge of Kew Gardens.

Gloriana on the tideway

The only moment of nervousness comes when switching sides of the river to get into the mouth of the River Brent which doubles as the Grand Union Canal for a few miles. By the time you get here the ebb tide is in full swing and zipping past the mouth of the river and being so slow we really don't want to get swept downstream. The target is the gap between the entrance to Brentford Dock (Marina) and the wavy sculpture on the downstream point. We tend to come in hugging the Brentford Dock side, pushing the bows into the still water of the Brent and letting the current swing the stern round. Others will warn you against this practice on account of the shallows which lie beneath the upstream point. They prefer to drop downstream and come back on the far side in the deepest water.

Safety at Thames Lock

If you have left Teddington at high water I really cant see how you will run out of water on the upstream side. If you look at low tide there is a bit of a shallow silt bank, but if you got anywhere near touching it there would be inadequate water to get you into Thames Lock. Anyway, we made our turn and its always a moment of relief when we see "Welcome to Thames Lock" up ahead. 

Brentford Gauging Locks

The two locks into Brentford Basin are manned for a couple of hours either side of high water and the lock keepers at both ends will not let you out till it's safe, and they are watching for your arrival at the far end. We had a small reception party comprising boat crews I met a few years ago on a BCN Explorer Cruise and who were hading upstream the next morning.

Listed Toll House

Last time we were here the Brentford 14 day visitor moorings were rammed but this time the ones up near the covered docks were empty, moorings which have water at each site and, if you have a token, electrical hook up. 

Brentford Basin

Brentford, like other tidal termini, has a slightly unusual atmosphere. Sure its all built up here and has all the hustle and bustle of a cosmopolitain city away from the water, but down on the moorings is is surprisingly tranquil and puts me in mind of Kidby. The similarity even extends to a nearby metal railway bridge which trains clank over every now and then.

Covered wharf at the end of the visitor moorings

With time of our hands we decided to play tourist and catch the train to London with the aim of visiting the London Canal Museum at Battlebridge Basin. On our way we passed the Brentford Locks Toll House which is a small museum open on Friday mornings, and also when the lock keepers are on duty. As it happened a boat was just arriving so we spent 15 mins having a look round the display.

Windsor

Windsor

June 2019

We spent a quiet night nestled into a secluded little hollow at Bourne End, an improvised mooring we have used in the past. It's a lovely spot out of the current but is slightly marred by a collapsed underwater wall which pushes you away from the bank. If you get it just right you can get the stern in near enough to hop on and off but you have to accept the the bows will be well out.

Riverside wedding

We were slightly concerned that a music system was being tested i the garden of a house opposite, but it turned out that it was part of a wedding event taking place the next day. It certainly looked a splendid location with the Thames as a backdrop. The next sections of the Thames are some of the most beautiful, particularly Cliveden Deep, but there was little tranquility this time. Hoards of boats were racing from lock to lock and inexperienced crews seemed intent on overtaking us on the bank side, as though we were in cars.

Saturday was an unusual day with wall to wall sunshine, so strong it had me reaching for the sun cream. Truth be told I don't like so much sun and generally prefer the protection of some shade.

As the day progressed the volume of boats on the water grew and grew. By the time we reached Windsor it was mayhem with boats large and small milling about everywhere. Things reached epic proportions at Boveney Lock where a steady stream of inexperienced Eaton rowers were pulling out from the portage slipway. It was here we had our first collision in ages. We were following a cruiser into the lock landing jetty and at the same time avoiding a rower when another narrowboat decided to make a dash for the bollards and cut us out of the queue. I asked for the water but he wouldn't slow so I simply made use of the weight of the butty and slewed into his bows, forcing him back. It dosn't do to play chicken with 25 tons. Among the mele of boats we did see a friendly face in the shape of John Hammond and the much travelled Muskrat. The boat has been repainted but its good to see that he is still sporting his unique garden at the rear!

Anyway, Windsor moorings were rammed, as you would imagine. Rather than look and fail to find a mooring on the meadow opposite the castle, we saw a gap on the north bank just after the rail bridge. As we approached we were warned of an underwater obstacle which was another fallen wall. As with the last night we managed to get the stern against the bank and left the bows out, and overnight we managed to get hooked on the ledge causing a slight but noticeable lean.

Windsor is famed for its over enthusiastic mooring warden. During past visits he had managed to come over in his boat and demand payment even before we were moored up, all delivered in a very belligerent manner. As I moored up I was assisted by the boat upstream of us and I wryly observed that I has set my stopwatch to see how long the ranger would take to get us.  Nothing happened till 7.00pm and the long awaited tap happened on the stern. It turned out that the mooring warden had changed and our neighbour was his replacement! 

The new wardens are delightful, a husband and wife pair who winter in India and summer in the UK, and they take a friendly and pragmatic approach. Its is a good news story in term of customer service but offers little in the way of tales to tell during lockside conversations.

Sunday was the relatively short hop down to Staines. First it was past Windsor Castle and then past Home Park and the Crown Estate land. The Heathrow flight path crosses the river at this point and the noise becomes deafening. Then it's on through Runneymede and the number of plastic boats lessens, and those we do see become less flamboyant. This trend can also be seen in the riverside houses which were beyond opulent upstream but now they become much more "normal". Truth be told, I find a lot of those insanely grand houses all a bit much. It's hard to imaging them being a home.

With Staines comes the M25 and inside the motorway we know we really are closing in on London - now about 25 miles away. 

We stopped in Staines on a free mooring site, mainly to let Helen get to a Hobby craft. We did think about going to the Vue Cinema as its very close to the river, but there was nothing on we wanted to see. Instead we settled on a Gourmet Burger followed by a speciality ice cream parlour.

On to Teddington

Staines to Teddington

June 2019

We kind of over achieved today. The plan was to move downstream from Staines and get to somewhere just past Shepperton, which would let us make use of the much needed facilities. But then we arrived at about 2.00pm and our thoughts started to turn to the tidal passage, and when we wanted to cross to CRT waters at Brentford.

A clutch of lovely wooden boats

This decision was partly dictated by the tide times and partly by the weather forecast. 

I have been watching the Wash crossing by a St Pancras group and had mentally clocked a noon high tide, so was a bit surprised when the Teddington lock keeper advised me tomorrows departure would be at 8.15am.

So we had a choice to make - press on and catch the tide or hang around up river and then move down to Teddington when the rain has passed tomorrow. As it was a lovey day today and the weather is set to become roasting at the end of the week we have decided to get the rise to Tring done in the relative cool.

I have to admit that I like the Thames downstream of Windsor. Suddenly, all those huge gin palaces melt away, as to the huge mansions, and we find ourselves in the land of the much more normal. All along the banks the river is lined with an eclectic assortment of huts and small houses, often hand built and oh so quirky. And it's not just the houses. Suddenly all sorts of interesting boats appear, from huge dutch barges, through the weird and wonderful houseboats to the achingly lovely wooden boats from the 1950's which seem to be making a strong comeback.

A bit of the Black Country

And it wasn't just the wooden boats which grabbed my attention. Coming up the river there was the distinctive irregular splutter of a semi diesel, set in a lovely Stuart and Lloyd Tug. You just cant get away from the Black Country.

Is this a hydrofoil? - it looks soooo cool and then move really fast.

We also witnessed a strange natural phenomenon. As we approached Hampton Court the sun burst out and almost immediately what appeared to be wispy columns of spoke erupted from a stand of trees. As we watched we could see the columns weave and sway and the telephoto lens revealed then to be swarms of insects which I have since been told were mating.

Swarming flies at Hampton Court

We finally made it to Teddington Locks at 6.00pm and realised that progress was slower today because virtually all the flow of the river has been diverted to the local reservoirs. As a result the flow is almost zero and our progress was back down to little over our more normal 2.3mph. 

Now thats a rooftop garden!

We are going to have to set our alarms for the morning to make sure we are ready for our tideway hop. I have made this trip twice before and once with the butty, so I am reasonably relaxed about it but you never know with moving water. However, with a max speed on flat water of 3.00mph we know we will be the last boat into Brentford.

Henley on Thames

Henley on Thames
June 2019

The Thames really is the king of rivers, majestically winding its way through the historical heart of England. 

Henley sunset

And there are few places on the river which are more atmospheric and "Thames" than Henley, with its rowing clubs and massive annual regatta. 

Henley

We arrived on the eve of the women's regatta and there were groups of blazer toting ladies wherever we looked. We moored at the upstream end of the meadow, a pleasant spot within earshot the weir, and whose rushing waters set off a constant series of waves which gently rocked the boat all night. The moorings are a hefty £10 a night, but we wanted to stop in Henley and that is the price you have to pay. By the rules you should buy a £10 ticket from one of the car park machines, but of the three, two were not working and the furthest one only accepted coins. We therefore left paying till the morning then the park warden came round.

Henley regata course

After weeks of grey skies and rain the weather seems to have broken and the strange yellow orb in the sky is working wonders on the wet washing hanging on lines in the butty.

Ladies regatta Henley

By the time we got started the women's rowing event was well underway, but I was interested to note that they don't use the grandstands erected for the mens event nearer the town, a gathering which will take place in a couple of weeks. 

Temple island Henley

As this is a leisurely trip we are covering about eight miles a day, and would have liked to stop below the lock at Marlow. However the moorings were full at 4.00pm so we continued on only to see two of the moored boats coming past us a bit further down the river. We carried on and moored in a secluded spot just below the railway bridge at Bourne End, a place we have used in the past.

The course to the start

With the sun out out the casual preserve sales have picked up with a lock keeper eagerly buying a selection and later, after tying up, a historic river boat pulled up to buy - I love these spontaneous sales meetings.

Bisham

Spit and Polish

A spot of polishing

June 2019

I am not a great fan of the practice of polishing brasses. I concede that they look lovely when they are all bright and shiny, but in my book the effort outweighs the result.

A  spot of mushroom polishing on the move

However, it is important to keep the butty looking its very best for festivals, and almost exactly two years ago another boater came up to me at the Ware festival and commented than my solitary mushroom vent was letting me down.

I had to agree that the tarnished blob on the roof of the butty was not great, but countered that I had tried to buff it up on several occasions but the best I achieved was a slightly less dull surface, and had therefore concluded that I had a naff bit of brass. Not so, he proclaimed - but what you need is a metal polisher. Yeh, great - like I have such a thing on my boat.....  Well, he reflected, I happen to have one aboard mine - would you like me to have a go at it?

Shiny knob

Of course, my answer was yes so I set to with a screwdriver and removed the whole assembly from the roof. Brett disappeared and 20 mins later he was back with this amazingly polished orb glinting in the summer sun, its body still warm from the process. I was delighted and quickly reattached the vent. Since then my focus on brass polishing has ebbed and flowed but I always make an effort for show days, maintaining that the cleaning process unleashes the magic genie of commerce. 

The unlovely portholes

But as you fix one problem you tend to create another, and no sooner was I the proud bearer of a glorious shiny knob (bear with me - I am a chid of the Benny Hill generation), my portholes started to attract disparaging comments like "nice knob, shame about the portholes". Periodically I had a go at the portholes, trying Brasso, specialist polishing creams, even tomato ketchup, but nothing lifted them above the dull gleam that used to be the lot of the mushroom vent. What I needed was, of course, a metal polishing machine!

Fast forward two years and we are once again heading down the Thames aware that Karen and Bret are heading upstream in dutch barge Edith, carrying with them the elusive machinery capable of revitalising my tarnished rims. We compared notes and timed our travels so we would meet at Beale Park where we could enjoy a BBQ beside the river on a balmy summer evening. We did indeed meet but the weather took a turn for the worse and we enjoyed our long awaited barbie in true British style - under a gazebo with the rain hammering down!

Polishing in the rain

In between the showers I removed the portholes from the sides of the butty, taking extreme care not to lose the screws or the rim as I worked upside down on the river side of the boat. As a precaution I gaffer taped a bin liner to the gunwhale to catch any errant metalwork. Oddly, one pane of glass stuck firmly to the side of the boat but on the river side the glass was firmly attached to the rim.

It took more than a downpour to stop either our meal or the brass polishing and as the rain cascaded perilously close to the electric motor, Brett buffed and polished away, restoring the portholes to a level of magnificence that they probably havn't enjoyed for over 30 years. 

Happy shiny portholes!

Then is was time to put them back on the butty. The side next to the motor boat was pretty simple with the porthole slotting in easily and the brass screws bedding down neatly onto a bed of silicone adhesive. The river side was, predictably another matter altogether. I took a long look at the rim and decided which side was down, tied a bit of string to the bottom screw hole as a back up in case I dropped it, applied the adhesive sealant, and inserted the top screw. Great. The second one at the back went in ok as well, followed by the one at the front which was a tad off centre but went in with a bit of persuasion. Then it came to the last one at the bottom - the one which is really hard to reach. I poked and prodded but the hole in the side of the butty was nowhere to be found. Clearly I had applied the porthole the wrong way up and the holes were not evenly spaced.

Now I could have removed the whole thing and found the right orientation by trial and error but the sealant is horrible stuff to get off and every time I hold a screw over the water there is a greater chance of losing it. I therefore figured that as the sealant is mega adhesive and ultra waterproof, the porthole will be fine with three well seated screws and the fourth can be drilled and tapped in the winter when I am at home with the proper tools.

I think that you will agree that I am now the proud owners of some lovely portholes all topped off with a knob any chap would be proud of. 

The innuendo and smut could continue all day but I think is best to leave it there.